I think my heart broke a little bit when I first saw that Pasticceria Barberini was closed for remodeling.

This was several years ago and I am happy to report that even though the pastry shop and coffee bar in Testaccio looks shiny and new, the commitment to quality remains the same as when it first opened back in 1925.

At the end of the day, that is exactly why I love it.

I do, however, miss the awkward little round coffee counter that used to be found right down there – at the end of the shop.

The pastries and coffee are both well done at Pasticceria Barberini

The Testaccio pastry shop has smartly dressed staff in burgundy caps and aprons who have to work at warp speed to keep up with the weekday morning rush of Romans in search of colazione.

It is one of my favorite places for breakfast in Rome because Pasticceria Barberini makes all of their cornetti with butter and a natural starter.  (They are big believers in letting the dough rise and using local yeasts).

Honestly, cornetti are not a type of breakfast food that I get overly excited about, but they are excellently done here.

Maybe that is because Pasticceria Barberini is best known for its pastries. As you walk in, the coffee area is to the left but the real action is happening to the right, where carefully crafted sweets glitter like tiny jewels.

They have tiramisu in an edible chocolate cup, tony green casatine, rich sacher torte, and pastries dreamed up by the team of bakers working away in the kitchen that you can easily see into through the glass wall behind the counter.

These tiny treats are known as “mignon” in case you want to order some (and you will). Larger cakes can be ordered in advance or picked from the cases in the corner of the shop.

The coffee, while not specialty coffee, is very good. Pasticceria Barberini uses a custom roast for their beans and makes a great cappuccino.

If you go in the morning, you can have your coffee at the counter or carry it to the small but comfortable tables that line the shop. Pasticceria Barberini briefly tried charge table service (a fee that most coffee places add if you want to be served instead of standing) but I think they gave up when all the regulars ignored the signs.

To keep this free, be courteous and bus the table when you are done- bringing your empty cup of coffee back to the counter. (And note that if you are going after breakfast time, paying for table service might be mandatory – at aperitivo hour, for example).

(Sad update 18 November: I don’t know if I tempted fate, but the menus are back at the tables here are no longer free. At least for the time being).

But really we keep coming back because baby G loves their hats and their cornetto semplice. And the baristas seem to like him just fine in return, which always makes him smile even more.

A final note:

There are two main schools of Testaccini: those who go to Pasticceria Barberini and those who swear by Linari.

While I preach fidelity in all things Italian (like going to the same vendor in the market), I am not loyal when it comes to beloved Testaccio coffee bars. You will just as soon find me at Tram Depot, as at Linari or Pasticceria Barberini. I like them all for different things and I drink enough coffee that it’s not difficult to be a regular at all three.

Pasticceria Barberini

Via Marmorata, 41
Rome, Italy (Testaccio)

Phone: +39 06 5725 0431

Open: Every day from 6 am to 9 pm.

The post Pasticceria Barberini for Coffee and Pastries in Testaccio appeared first on An American in Rome.

There are days when you want to eat clean and green, and then other days (most days?) when you want to dig into a personal-sized tiramisu while wandering the streets of Rome. For those more important days, there is ZUM – a dessert shop near Campo de’ Fiori.

ZUM stands for the three main ingredients in tiramisu: zucchero (sugar), uova (egg), and mascarpone (a kind of light, soft cheese).

In this case, all the ingredients are also organic whenever possible.

The classic tiramisu comes dusted with cocoa powder and is technically probably large enough to share buuuuut I would suggest keeping the entire thing for yourself.

Other flavors are less traditional and come with pistachio, berries or a monthly flavor. Gluten and lactose-free versions are also available at a slight (50 cent) surcharge.

The kitchen is clearly visible behind a glass wall as you walk into the small shop (which is essentially across the street from Piazza Navona).

The mixers seem to be perpetually whirling to whip the mascarpone and the window into the workspace also goes to show there’s nothing to hide.

In addition to tiramisu, ZUM has other sweets all based around the famous Italian dessert. You can also find cookies and popsicles in various flavors in the fridge near the register.

If you are looking for dessert in the Campo area and need a gelato break (is that a thing?) then ZUM is a great option.

I love ZUM because even when I have a whole portion, I feel like I’ve indulged but it doesn’t hit you like a bomb that weighs you down for the rest of the day. BUT I think my favorite tiramisu in Rome is at Flavio al Velavevodetto because of the chocolate. I know that the tradition tiramisu comes with just a bit of powder but I love the Velavevodetto version topped with melted chocolate.

Side note: keep in mind that the egg yolks that are traditionally used to make tiramisu are not cooked. That means that this dessert is not recommended if you are traveling to Italy while pregnant. Sad, I know. I made do by learning how to whip it up myself when I took a cooking class in Tuscany. 

ZUM

Piazza del Teatro di Pompeo, 20
Rome, Italy (Centro Storico)

Open 11:30 am – 11: 30 pm every day (and until 1 am on Friday and Saturday nights).

The post ZUM Tiramisu in Rome appeared first on An American in Rome.

There are few restaurants that I recommend in Rome more often than Trattoria da Cesare al Casaletto (sometimes also called “Da Cesare”). I warn people that while it is easy to get to, it is not one of the more central restaurants in Rome. The trip out to Monteverde Nuovo, however, is more than worth it to dine on the vine-covered patio.

To get there, simply hop on the 8 Tram (which works just like a bus in Rome) and take the tram through all of Trastevere and to the very last stop – Casaletto. Cross the street at the light and the restaurant will be right off the corner, disguised by some residential buildings.

The quiet area might not feel as “Roman” as the cobblestone streets around the Pantheon or the ivy-draped roads near the Colosseum, but this is truly where to come for some of the best Roman food the city has to offer. Da Cesare does all the classics with a refinement that is hard to find just about anywhere else.

Start with the fried gnocchi. As if they would not be indulgent enough on their own, these golden beauties are served atop a cacio e pepe (cheese and pepper) sauce.

Tratorria da Cesare al Casaletto really does appetizers well, so don’t be shy about also ordering the fried eggplant topped with arrabiata sauce. “Arrabiata” means “angry” but these have just the right kick of heat to spice up the melanzane.

We paired all this crispy goodness with a sparkling verdiso wine that I cannot stop thinking about. I loved it so much that I even emailed the winery to find out if I could buy it in Rome.

We also simply ordered another bottle because not only is the quality of food excellent and the wine list extensive – the prices at Da Cesare are more than fair. This bottle was €12.

Bubbly goes well with all fritti, and we kept going with supplì and fiore di zucca. There was a mozzarella di bufala thrown in for good measure. All of this before the pasta.

And the pasta at Da Cesare is a marvelous thing. Start with your favorite pasta (either dried or fresh) and then select the sauce.

The oxtail sauce is particularly good and not as easy to find at some of the more basic restaurants in Rome. You can also order oxtail as a main dish, but I like it here atop gnocchi.

The carbonara comes liberally doused in cheese and studded with perfectly crisped guanciale.

And the cacio e pepe is rightly considered to be some of the best in Rome.

How did we eat so much between three people and a baby? Well, it was Sunday lunch – which is the best time to reserve a table at Trattoria Da Cesare and eat ever-so-slowly. This is a place for savoring your meal, and not rushing to get the next tram home.

It doesn’t hurt that everyone who works there is incredibly nice. (Something I never take for granted in Rome).

Hop on the tram. Pull up a seat. Get the fritti. Choose your pasta. You’re Welcome.

Trattoria Da Cesare

Via del Casaletto, 45
Rome, Italy

Closed Wednesday. Open every other day from 12:45 pm – 3pm for lunch, and 7:45 pm – 11 pm for dinner.

Reservations highly recommended.

The post Trattoria Da Cesare al Casaletto in Rome appeared first on An American in Rome.

Last updated on October 8th, 2018 at 08:58 pm

Since moving to its new structure in 2012, Testaccio Market has gone through a rapid evolution. While some of the old, traditional stalls have disappeared, the shiny new marketplace (and its electricity and running water) have allowed new eateries to flourish. One of the stalls where you can regularly find me waiting for lunch is in line for a slice of pizza at Casa Manco.

There is no shortage of choice on the Rome pizza scene. In the same market, I suggest stopping by Artenio’s stand for pizzette and at night you should wait for a table and a pizza tonda (large, round pizza) at Da Remo. However, if it’s pizza al taglio you’re after, then look no further than Casa Manco.

Found at Box 22, the pizza by the slice business is run by Paola and Andrea – the married, merry pizza makers. The couple came to pizza making as a second career but we should all be thankful for their foray into food.

I occasionally stop into the market for a coffee first thing in the morning and while I sit there trying to keep my baby from sticking his fingers in my cappuccino, we often run into Paola walking back towards her pizza stand with a box of fresh produce.

She will wait until the peak of fig season before making prosciutto e fichi, and she even incorporates winter favorites like puntarelle as toppings. Today I had a pizza topped with uva fragola (a special kind of grape), which Paola picked up from the best fruit stall a few rows away.

The flavors of pizza can change daily based on what is in season and available in the market that day, but the pizza makers also have a few signature dishes that are usually available.

These include their pizza bianca with sesame seeds or classic margarita. There is usually at least one vegan pizza with hummus and eggplant or tomatoes and olives. Sometimes you can find a turkey and guacamole stuffed pizza that shocked me the first time I ever tried it – I told Paola that it was the first time I ever actually enjoyed guacamole in Rome. All the non-pizza versions I had tried before were poor imitations of a dip I love dearly.

While many of the playful flavors find inspiration from outside of Italy, Casa Manco also makes excellent pizza with nduja (a spicy, spreadable salami from Calabria) or a slice with fennel, olive, and citrus that is inspired by a classic southern Italian salad.

Purists might notice the dough looks a little bit different. This is because it is a mix of four different flours – and the result is perfection. There is crunch where there needs to be, chew where it should be, and a flavor (plus, Italians will tell you, “digestibility”) that pairs with the flavors without distracting from the toppings.

It is also a family business. Of course, Paola and Andrea are there every day, but you might also have a chance to chat with their sons who regularly help on Saturdays. Their daughter also takes part in the pizza making when she is in Rome.

And don’t be shy about ordering several small pieces of pizza. Pizza al taglio is pizza that is meant to be cut to the size you want, and then it is paid for based on weight. Getting a slice of several is the best way to try all of the delicious combos that are constantly being sent out from the small but busy ovens in the back.

If you are lucky and you arrive when the crowd is small – stop and talk to Andrea and Paola about the pizza that day. I promise that they can tell you the story behind each and every ingredient.

Casa Manco

Mercato di Testaccio – Box 22
Via Beniamino Franklin, 12/E
Rome, Italy

Open Monday through Saturday from about 10 am to 2:30 pm.

The post Casa Manco Pizza al Taglio in Testaccio Market appeared first on An American in Rome.