The Battle to Protect Rome’s Cultural Heritage from Tourist VandalismWith approximately 300 officers tasked with protecting Italy’s vast cultural patrimony, the Carabinieri TPC (Tutela Patrimonio Culturale) faces an uphill battle against rising monument defacement.In June 2023, a viral video showed a tourist carving “Ivan + Hayley 23” into a wall of the Colosseum. The 27-year-old Bulgarian fitness instructor living in the UK was eventually tracked down by Italian police and faced charges carrying a potential €15,000 fine and up to five years in prison. The incident made international headlines, but for those working to protect Rome’s heritage, it represented just one case among hundreds. The scale, unsurprisingly, is vast. The Colosseum alone welcomed over seven million visitors in 2023, with daily counts frequently surpassing 20,000 during peak summer months in 2024. This relentless flow of tourists has led to both natural wear and deliberate vandalism. High-profile cases include a Canadian tourist carving her initials with a stone, an Irish man scratching his mark on a pillar, and a Russian tourist fined €20,000 after carving a large “K” into the monument in 2014. Standing between Italy’s cultural treasures and their destruction is the Carabinieri Command for the Protection of Cultural Heritage, known as the TPC (Tutela Patrimonio Culturale). Founded in 1969, a year before the UNESCO Convention on cultural property protection, it was the world’s first specialised police force dedicated to combatting art and antiquities crime. The force currently operates with approximately 300 officers based in 16 regional units across Italy. The TPC’s achievements in recovering stolen art are impressive. In 2023 alone, the unit recovered over 105,000 works of art, up from more than 80,000 in 2022. In 2020, despite the pandemic, they recovered 501,574 stolen cultural properties. The force maintains the world’s largest database of stolen cultural goods, the Banca Dati Leonardo, containing approximately 1.3 million files. Their work extends internationally, with successful missions to Iraq, Croatia, Albania, and Lebanon to assist with heritage protection following conflicts and natural disasters. Yet when it comes to preventing tourist vandalism at monuments, the TPC faces a mammoth task. With 300 officers responsible for protecting the entirety of Italy’s cultural heritage, the mathematics of enforcement are discouraging. The sheer volume of visitors and the scattered nature of heritage sites across the country mean that most acts of vandalism go unpunished, even when witnessed and reported. Many tourists caught defacing monuments claim ignorance of the law or of the significance of what they’re damaging. One vandal insisted he was unaware the Colosseum was as ancient as it is. The parents of a 17-year-old Swiss tourist who carved her initials into the monument dismissed the incident, saying, “She’s just a young girl, she wasn’t doing anything wrong.” Large crowds at popular sites make it very difficult to monitor individual behaviour; when tourists enter without guides, keeping tabs becomes even harder. In response to the problem, Italy introduced tougher legislation. In April 2023, new laws increased maximum fines for damaging monuments to €60,000, intended both to dissuade potential vandals and to offset restoration costs. By 2024, penalties had been raised further to €40,000. The legislation targets not just casual vandals but also environmental activists who have increasingly targeted cultural sites to draw attention to their causes. When American tourist Ryan Lutz filmed the “Ivan + Hayley” incident and showed the footage to Colosseum guards, they didn’t initially take it seriously. It was only after Lutz uploaded the video to social media that the Carabinieri used facial-recognition technology to identify the culprit. The problem is compounded by some tourists’ shifting attitudes toward cultural sites. According to historians, some visitors view Italy as “a place devoid of rules and laws, where everything is art and therefore nothing is art,” perhaps influenced by cinematic depictions like La Dolce Vita and Roman Holiday. Coupled with the anonymity of travel, this perception encourages bad behaviour. Meanwhile, the Instagram age has transformed monuments into photo opportunities. Conservation experts emphasise that sustainable tourism practices must be prioritised. This includes protective coatings for vulnerable surfaces, controlled visitor pathways, and educational campaigns. Virtual-reality tours and digital reconstructions are being explored as alternatives that could reduce physical wear while maintaining visitor access. Some experts suggest limiting physical access to sensitive areas entirely, supplementing them with immersive digital experiences. The TPC, for its part, stresses that effective cultural-heritage protection requires public collaboration and awareness. As one CoESPU publication on the force noted, “The awareness that cultural heritage is part of our identity, of our ‘home’, is the only tool that can ensure unremitting and effective protection.” The question remains whether enforcement, education, and technology can evolve quickly enough to protect Italy’s irreplaceable heritage from the cumulative impact of millions of visitors who, whether through ignorance or disregard, continue to leave their mark on history.

With approximately 300 officers tasked with protecting Italy’s vast cultural patrimony, the Carabinieri TPC (Tutela Patrimonio Culturale) faces an uphill battle against rising monument defacement. In June 2023, a viral video showed a tourist carving “Ivan + Hayley 23” into a wall of the Colosseum. The 27-year-old Bulgarian fitness instructor living in the UK was eventually tracked down by Italian police and faced charges carrying a potential €15,000 fine and up to five years in prison. The incident made international headlines, but for those working to protect Rome’s heritage, it represented just one case among hundreds. The scale, unsurprisingly, is vast. The Colosseum alone welcomed over seven million visitors in 2023, with daily counts frequently surpassing 20,000 during peak summer months in 2024. This relentless flow of tourists has led to both natural wear and deliberate vandalism. High-profile cases include a Canadian tourist carving her initials with a stone, an Irish man scratching his mark on a pillar, and a Russian tourist fined €20,000 after carving a large “K” into the monument in 2014. Standing between Italy’s cultural treasures and their destruction is the Carabinieri Command for the Protection of Cultural Heritage, known as the TPC (Tutela Patrimonio Culturale). Founded in 1969, a year before the UNESCO Convention on cultural property protection, it was the world’s first specialised police force dedicated to combatting art and antiquities crime. The force currently operates with approximately 300 officers based in 16 regional units across Italy. The TPC’s achievements in recovering stolen art are impressive. In 2023 alone, the unit recovered over 105,000 works of art, up from more than 80,000 in 2022. In 2020, despite the pandemic, they recovered 501,574 stolen cultural properties. The force maintains the world’s largest database of stolen cultural goods, the Banca Dati Leonardo, containing approximately 1.3 million files. Their work extends internationally, with successful missions to Iraq, Croatia, Albania, and Lebanon to assist with heritage protection following conflicts and natural disasters. Yet when it comes to preventing tourist vandalism at monuments, the TPC faces a mammoth task. With 300 officers responsible for protecting the entirety of Italy’s cultural heritage, the mathematics of enforcement are discouraging. The sheer volume of visitors and the scattered nature of heritage sites across the country mean that most acts of vandalism go unpunished, even when witnessed and reported. Many tourists caught defacing monuments claim ignorance of the law or of the significance of what they’re damaging. One vandal insisted he was unaware the Colosseum was as ancient as it is. The parents of a 17-year-old Swiss tourist who carved her initials into the monument dismissed the incident, saying, “She’s just a young girl, she wasn’t doing anything wrong.” Large crowds at popular sites make it very difficult to monitor individual behaviour; when tourists enter without guides, keeping tabs becomes even harder. In response to the problem, Italy introduced tougher legislation. In April 2023, new laws increased maximum fines for damaging monuments to €60,000, intended both to dissuade potential vandals and to offset restoration costs. By 2024, penalties had been raised further to €40,000. The legislation targets not just casual vandals but also environmental activists who have increasingly targeted cultural sites to draw attention to their causes. When American tourist Ryan Lutz filmed the “Ivan + Hayley” incident and showed the footage to Colosseum guards, they didn’t initially take it seriously. It was only after Lutz uploaded the video to social media that the Carabinieri used facial-recognition technology to identify the culprit. The problem is compounded by some tourists’ shifting attitudes toward cultural sites. According to historians, some visitors view Italy as “a place devoid of rules and laws, where everything is art and therefore nothing is art,” perhaps influenced by cinematic depictions like La Dolce Vita and Roman Holiday. Coupled with the anonymity of travel, this perception encourages bad behaviour. Meanwhile, the Instagram age has transformed monuments into photo opportunities. Conservation experts emphasise that sustainable tourism practices must be prioritised. This includes protective coatings for vulnerable surfaces, controlled visitor pathways, and educational campaigns. Virtual-reality tours and digital reconstructions are being explored as alternatives that could reduce physical wear while maintaining visitor access. Some experts suggest limiting physical access to sensitive areas entirely, supplementing them with immersive digital experiences. The TPC, for its part, stresses that effective cultural-heritage protection requires public collaboration and awareness. As one CoESPU publication on the force noted, “The awareness that cultural heritage is part of our identity, of our ‘home’, is the only tool that can ensure unremitting and effective protection.” The question remains whether enforcement, education, and technology can evolve quickly enough to protect Italy’s irreplaceable heritage from the cumulative impact of millions of visitors who, whether through ignorance or disregard, continue to leave their mark on history.