What if we told you there’s a corner of central Rome, just minutes from the Colosseum, where you can walk without pushing through selfie sticks and scammers trying to gift you ? Welcome to the Caelian Hill, one of Rome’s seven hills and the city’s most reserved. Seen from the Colosseum, it may look simply like a wooded area, but push past the , and keep on walking uphill… It’s going to be worth the effort! Here time flows differently, tourists are a rarity, and Rome shows its most authentic face.

Forget about endless queues: on the Caelian Hill, churches are jewels guarded by silence. The Basilica of Santi Giovanni e Paolo sits atop a maze of Roman chambers (which you can visit!), while the small church of Santa Maria in Domnica (known as the “Navicella”, from the sculpted boat right by the entrance) is a favorite among those who are looking for a wedding venue. However, the real surprise is Santo Stefano Rotondo: step inside and look up at the frescoes of martyred saints. Brutal, raw, unforgettable. It’s not a place for everyone, but those seeking authentic Rome will appreciate it. Complete your sacred tour at Santi Quattro Coronati, a special place for those who look for a silent retreat.

This city park houses the Italian Geographic Society (book a visit, it’s worth it), and nearby Parco di San Sisto, on the slopes of the villa is an urban vineyard. Yes, you read that right: grapes growing in central Rome! Called the “Roma Mater Vinorum”, this project is bringing viticulture back to the city, and this small green corner has already become an environmental laboratory complete with climate sensors. Strolling here in summer also means enjoying free jazz concerts at Village Celimontana, which is housed right in the park.

Want to see how Romans lived two 2,000 years ago? Beneath the Basilica of Santi Giovanni e Paolo lies a complex of perfectly preserved Roman houses. Called “Case romane del Celio” in Italian, they come complete with colorful frescoes, rooms facing courtyards, even an early Christian chapel! It’s like stepping into a time machine! : without an explanation, you risk missing the context. And when you return to the surface, the surroundings will seem even more magical, knowing what it holds beneath your feet.

A subway stop will be here soon enough, bringing more tourists, but in the meantime you can enjoy this surreal part of the city center almost by yourself! With its wine shops, neighborhood cafes and family-run stores scattered along the sights, the Caelian area waits for you to come and discover it. Want to stay around here? Look no further than !