Saturday 13 June 2020
#eat / drink #restaurants #best x y
The X best "vaccinara" oxtails of Rome. Where to eat the queen of the fifth quarter.
The fifth quarter is what remained of the cow after selling the valuable parts to those who could afford it. So tripe, heart, pajata, offal in general. And tail. These discards ended up over time to acquire dignity and have become a non-existent "fourth": the fifth.
There are a couple of versions, different only for the addition of some ingredients: pine nuts, raisins, cocoa, cinnamon, nutmeg. But the concept behind it is as follows: you boil the tail with the tomato for a long, long time (6 hours). Then you add a lot, a lot of celery.
After much boiling, the tail releases its connective tissue: the muscle fibers will be very tender and a tasty jelly will form. Of meat there will actually be little left, but with the advanced sauce you can season delicious rigatoni.
It will be because the queue is not easily found in supermarkets and at the butcher's, it will be because it takes a day to prepare it, it will be because the Romans are lazy in nature ... but they rarely cook at home.
All that remains is to rely on the restaurants that offer it on the menu.
Not a few but not a great many; if we can take it for granted that in a Roman restaurant we will certainly find amatriciana or carbonara ... finding the tail is rarer.